Electric Power Steering conversion Phase 1

Today I'll share with you how I converted my power steering system to an electric power steering system on my AE102 corolla.

This is only a phase 1 as I want to implement variable PS assistance based on car speed. this would be covered in a second phase later on. This current system is in use on my daily driver since autumn 2016 and was used everyday in the canadian winter since then without failures.

Reasons for going on with this

• totally disconnect the engine and PS system allowing for a more wild engine choice when space would not allow it otherwise, makes for easier future engine swaps. 
• allows to turn off enterily the PS system for drag racing. giving an advantage vs regular driving. drops the rotating masses attached to the crankshaft and power losses.
• allows you to enjoy a different steering sensitivity by the adjustment of a knob and find the spot where you feel best according to you particular car. allowing to take away the spongy steering feeling toyotas are know for.

Parts needed.

• MR2 turbo electric PS pump motor and it's immediate hydraulic fittings.
• custom bracket to hold the PS pump motor to the car.
• PS fluid reservoir and low pressure hoses to reach PS pump motor
• Hydraulic hose to join the PS pump motor and the steering rack.
• 80a adjustable DC Motor controller. 
• 80a fuse
• 80a automotive relay 
• 8ga wiring to reach car battery, fuse, relay and PS pump motor.
• 18ga wiring to reach relay's coil and +b 

here is the DC motor controller I am using since last autum without issues. comes with it's tuning knob
e-bay 2000W PWM Motor Speed Control

 

Electrical wiring diagram.

no details are given on the PS pump motor wiring color yet

Pictures of the installation are yet to come when time allows.

TOYOBD1 :: quickest way to test TPS operation

!! After doing this test procedure make sure to erase ECU error codes because unplugging the TPS while Ignition key is ON will store an error code. !!

This technique is only meant for 4 wires analog type TPS.

Typical 4 wires Toyota TPS

4 wires are reaching the TPS

1. E2 is a sensor ground 
2. IDL is telling the ECU if the throttle is at rest
3. VTA is the output signal telling the throttle opening angle
4. VC  is a sensor reference voltage, should be 5v or pretty close

First make sure the IDL switch is working inside the TPS

Without the Ignition key ON, unplug the TPS connector.

Using a multimeter you will test for continuity between E2 and IDL when the throttle is at rest. if you open the throttle plate big enough continuity will be loss, this is expected.

using a multimeter I'm testing for continuity between E2 and IDL

Testing with TOYOBD1 the ECU and wiring for proper operation

notice the absence of IDL flag here

With the Ignition key ON and engine not running, 

unplug the TPS connector. 

Launch TOYOBD1 and connect to your OBD1READ device. 

make sure you look at the TPS cell.

with no TPS connected you should get such readings

The IDL flag will not be shown, this is expected.

BE CAREFUL NOT TO BRIDGE E2 WITH VC OR ECU DAMAGE MAY OCCUR 

LOOKING INTO THE TPS CONNECTOR. with a jumper in place

notice the presence of the IDL flag

Now using a jumper wire you will bridge E2 and IDL.

you will get this reading in TOYOBD1, the IDL flag will be present.

if you don't get the IDL flag to show something is wrong with the wiring between TPS and ECU, or the ECU is damaged( less likely )

 

!! After doing this test procedure make sure to erase ECU error codes because unplugging the TPS while Ignition key is ON will store an error code. !!

Mandatory skills before ECU tuning

Lots of people want to tune petrol EFI engines for themselves

As modern and software oriented it may seems, it requires of people godly troubleshooting skills when things don't go as planned. Without all of those skills you will always depend on a skilled folk with dwindling patience who'll end up terminating your friendship with him.
Here are the most important to me

When creating something new it's rarely expected to work right the first time

Be the person who can take on challenges, not the one asking others to fix it for free and take the glory.

Buy yourself a fire extinguisher if is not done already.

General DC electrical skills

- master iron soldering, twisting wire is not allowed
- understanding the wire colour naming convention.
- understanding how fuses work and enjoying their benefits
- understanding how relays work, there will be an awful lot of them ahead
- understanding your engine wiring diagram perfectly, if you can't say why it is rigged this way try again.
- being able to use a multimeter to read voltage,impedance,frequencies and capacitance.

IGNITION skills

0- understanding engine firing order and being able to place spark plug wires accordingly
1- being able to test for spark events at the spark plugs (getting a spark occurring outside the cylinder head for tests)
2- being able to tell when an engine does not run on all it's cylinders and locate which ones
3- being able to read spark plugs colours. (being oily, rich, lean, and more importantly variance accross cylinders)
4- being able to properly install a timing belt or timing chain
5- know what is ignition advance and ignition retard.
6- being able to use an ignition timing light
7- being able to locate TDC on the reference piston on an engine with a test rod(making sure the reference point on the harmonic dampener is true)
8- being able to adjust an ignition distributor

FUEL INJECTION skills

- understand what composes the fuel delivery system and identify which part on your car is each one(appearance varies from one implementation to another)
- identifying fuel leaks and fixing them appropriately
- being able to measure fuel pressure with a gauge
- understand how to adjust a fuel pressure regulator if needed
- knowing the various smoke colours that can come out of a tail pipe and their origins
- knowing what is a rich and lean mixture
- detecting various bad analog sensor readings
- being able to test injector impedance
- understanding how the universal narrowband oxygen sensor works and testing
- understand how to install and read a wideband oxygen sensor/gauge
- rough injector operation testing
- understand what the injector duty cycle means ,measuring/calculating it would be even better

ENGINE MATH THEORY skills

- understand the concept of engine volumetric efficiency ( VE )
- understand the concept of [RPM x VE ] and  [RPM x pressure] mapping for fuel and ignition
- understand what is engine air flow
- understand what an air flow meter outputs and interpret it's reading
- understand what forced induction does to engine air flow

SOFTWARE use skills 

- know what is a COM port on a laptop computer
- being able to find the COM port # you'll be using when tuning. those things change from time to time :)
- being able to use the data logging interface offered by the ECU,if available
- being able to locate data log files on your computer and read them with a spread sheet software

With those skills you should be able to troubleshoot many basic engine related issues and should avoid being a pain in the ass to someone else who does know. there is far more to be known than this, If all of this is already boring, don't bother going deeper. :)

Simplest Narrowband OX sensor simulator

BUILDING IT

 Hi, today I'll be sharing with you how to build a very simple narrowband oxygen sensor simulator, this thing is only useful to troubleshoot how an ECU reads the 2 states of an oxygen sensor. it does not simulate an oxygen sensor heater. On your left you will see the sensor curve for all NB oxygen sensors. the tool is simply a switch that outputs a ground path, or about 0.75 to 1V. allowing the user to simulate a rich or lean reading.




The Parts needed are very simple, and should be found at all local electronic parts shop.

4 X 1K resitors. 1/4w is fine
2 x 10k resistors. 1/4w is fine
3 x wires of different colors ,about 2 feet long gauge 20
1 x single pole double throw switch, something with 3 pins
2 x shrink wrap tubing for protecting the circuitry , or electrical tape

optional parts
shrink wrap to hide all of the 3 wires and the circuitry
3 x crocodile connectors

 Here you can see how I built it. very simple to do, twisting the resistors together and soldering it all in the end. adding the wires.

 complete tool ready for use

AND NOW PLAYING WITH IT

 I went ahead and proved the tool on my own like all mad scientist should be doing. Test subject is a 1997 toyota corolla, AE102 at birth , converted with an 92-93 3VZ-FE running a Canadian OBD1 A/T ECU with an OBD1READ device used in conjunction with TOYOBD1.

the tool sits on the front engine bank with the orange wire connected at the alternator pole, and the green wire connected to the chassis ground. white wire leads to the front bank ox sensor wire

 

First I warmed the engine up. then when ready ,toggling the switch with one hand an data logging in toyobd1 with the other I was able to fool my ECU into thinking the sensor reading was either rich or lean.

Summary

This tool can be used to make sure the wiring and  ECU are correctly working. leaving the only possible culprit to the sensor itself if something is wrong.

TOYOBD1 :: Online Glossary

TOYOBD1 This is the current application, it allows you to see and record the information listed below with an interval of about 1.3s between frames. this delay is inheritent of the Toyota OBD1 protocol and sadly we cannot make it any faster.

OBD1READ The tool needed to connect to you car,(No an OBD2 elm327 wont work instead ). Visit www.zf-scantools.com to order yours.

Here is how to hook OBD1READ to your car, please note that VF can be labeled VF1. Check the diagram present in the diag blox cover for exact connections.

On some cars, TE2 and E1 must be tied together into the DLC2 connector.(namely JZA80 and Lexus SC400)

INJ Injector opening duration in Millisecond for one engine Revolution

IGN Ignition advance angle in degrees before TDC, positive values indicate angles after TDC

IAC Percentage of opening of Idle air control valve

RPM Engine speed,please note that the OBD1 protocol cannot show speed above 6375 rpm :S

VAF/MAP/MAF This is the value measured by the metering system in volts, kpa or gr/sec depending on configuration

ECT Engine coolant temperature reading

TPS Throttle position sensor,range should be 0-90 degrees

SPD Vehicle speed sensor

STFT S.hort T.erm F.uel T.rim, it represents how much the ECU needs to compensate VS what he expected

MPG Fuel consumption calculation

Means that the A/C system is engaged

Means that the acceleration enrichment mode is on

Means that the after start enrichment mode is on

Means that unknown function word 11 bit 2 is on

Means that unknown function word 11 bit 3 is on

Means that unknown function word 11 bit 7 is on

Means that unknown function word 12 bit 6 is on

Means that Idle mode is ON, generally different ignition advance and extensive usage of IACV, TPS closed or closing

Means that knock sensor detects heavy knocking now

Means that the neutral start switch is on

Means that the ECU is now in open loop mode

Means that an oxygen sensor is reading a lean air fuel ratio mixture

Means that an oxygen sensor is reading a rich air fuel ratio mixture

Means the ECU detects the starter is engaged

Means that the ECU is in self diagnosis mode. it happens when the engine start and goes away when driving if the ECU suspects nothing wrong.

Means the engine is in warm up mode

Thermal Audio Alarm

When the engine water temp exceeds 100C or 212F and audio alarm will be heard telling you there is something wrong that you should take care of, RIGHT NOW.

Known Limits of Toyota OBD1

Protocol speed is 1.3s between frames( please remember this protocol dates back to the early 90s when that speed probably seemed sufficient). Another important limitation is that no engine speed above 6375 rpm will be displayed.

Communication Heartbeat

Useful for troubleshooting, this shows when a frame is sent from the ecu to toyobd1, if the ECU sends nothing there wont be an heartbeat at all.

About author

Toyobd1/OBD1READ was carried out in the winter of 20134-2014 by JF Breton with the 3VZ-FE in mind. Canadian programmer and toyophile mainly interested in all ECU stuff,3S-GTE celicas and strange projects.

TOYOBD1 Android Datalogger :: Jumper needed on most RWD I6 and V8 cars

Why does it need a jumper in the first place?

To output data, the ECU must be put in TEST MODE 2, this is done by jumping TE2 and E1. On most cars Toyota conveniently placed it in the engine bay diagnosis box, but decided to not place it on those cars. the OBD1READ internally jumps TE2 and E1 when connecting the tool,(the green wires on the bare unit).since the TE2 pin is missing in the diagnosis box it can't be jumped with the OBD1READ too. instead you must do it yourself at another (less but still convenient) place called the DLC2 connector. this one is in the cabin ,under the dashboard near the steering column, regardless of car being LHD or RHD. What needs to be done is place a short wire between TE2 and E1 to put the ECU in TEST MODE 2. 

Cars known to be affected by this Toyota design

• JZA80 supra all of them
• JZZ30 Soarers, all of them
• JZX90 Chasers
• JZX100 Chasers
• Toyota Cressida (7M-GE)
• Toyota Aristo
• Lexus SC300 , SC400
• Lexus LS400
• Lexus GS300, GS400

TOYOBD1 Android Datalogger :: How to install the OBD1READ 22P

Today I will show you how to install your OBD1READ 22P unit to a compatible car.

First lets take a look at your package content.

1 OBD1READ 22P device ready for installation.

1  user manual that explains how to install the device. 

This user manual explains what kind of problems you may encounter while installing and how to overcome them or where to get support if you can't handle them alone.

The pdf file for the user manual can be downloaded here!

Before doing anything you must know what must be connected for the system to work.

Please take note that some luxury and sports car, LS400, mk4 supras, SC400 and Soarer will need a jumper to be placed in another diagnostic port under the dashboard. Details for those cars are available in the application glossary dialog.

There are 2 types of engine bay diagnosis boxes you can find on supported cars. Installation is a simple matter of plugging the connector on the diagnosis box the right way, there is only one way to do it.

The 22 pins diagnosis box found on mid 90s and late cars

Always black the 22p diagnosis box was also used on OBD2 cars with a slightly different pin out.

The 17 pins diagnosis box found on early cars

Most of the time grey, part of the 22p connector will float in the air this is normal and it can go on only one way.

The needed contacts should be already in the diagnostic box if your car was compatible.In the case of an engine swap with custom wiring, you may need to add the missing wires and contacts in the diagnostic box to be compatible.

Here's a Lexus SC400  with an obd1read scanner tied to the strut tower brace.

 

At that point you are ready to power up the car and configure your cell phone and TOYOBD1.